Gumusluk

Five of our favorite small towns in Turkey

Some of Turkey's most alluring charms are hidden away in her small towns and villages. It is in these small corners of Turkey that you will experience the full warmth of Turkish hospitality, which overwhelms any cultural, political or religious differences. The pace of village life is also the perfect antidote to the bustle of Istanbul, so spending time in these quiet corners of the countryside is essential for us to maintain our sanity. They also have the ability to make you feel transported back in time, as village life maintains many customs and routines long since forgotten in cities. This short list includes some of our favorites, but is by no means comprehensive. Not all of these towns are even particularly obscure—but they have a character, an atmosphere, that keep us coming back for more.

 

Şirince

Houses of Sirince

Houses of Sirince

Şirince is sheer magic. The first time we ever arrived in this hilltop village of 600 was at the end of a long and sweaty day of travel. We were greeted with chilled elderflower juice in the private courtyard garden of our hotel. We were in love.

Yes please more elderflower juice please.

Yes please more elderflower juice please.

But when I say hotel, don't imagine long carpeted hallways, key cards, and ice machines. A hotel in Şirince is more likely to be an old Greek house, restored to reflect its history, but with more perks, like a hamam-style bathroom.

A restored Greek house

A restored Greek house

Şirince, situated inland in the hills above Selcuk and about an hour south of Izmir, was historically a Greek village. This heritage is apparent in the traditional architecture and churches that lend the village it's characteristic charm. Though tourism has an important role in Şirince's economy, many of the villagers still make a living from producing and selling local products, including olive oil, fruit preserves, fruit wine, natural soaps, and hand-crafted jewelry. What's more, these local jams and olives and honeys are an absolute treasure—one terrace breakfast laid out with homemade fig, peach, or quince jam will be enough to send you home with a few jars in your suitcase. Just be sure they don't break all over the leather jacket in which you've packed them so carefully, ahem.

A local breakfast spread

A local breakfast spread

Hey, whatcha makin'?

Hey, whatcha makin'?

Şirince is also a mere 20 minute drive from the ancient city of Ephesus, one of the most magnificent archeological sites in the world. For this and the many magical moments we have spent there, we encourage all our friends and family to make a stop in Şirince on their travels through Turkey. Though it is the only inland village on our list, it may be our favorite of all.

 

Kaş

The pretty shops of Kas

The pretty shops of Kas

Kaş is a dream—because it is a perfect little seaside escape, yes, but also in that it is our actual dream to own a summer house there in the future.

Kaş is situated right on the corner of Turkey where the Aegean coast becomes the Mediterranean, and vice versa. Though tourism has surpassed fishing as the main industry in town, it has not been overdeveloped, and presents a much quieter alternative to the crowds of Bodrum in the summer months. Maybe Kaş remains unspoiled because it is harder to get to than other seaside towns, with a two and a half hour drive between it and the nearest airport. Whatever the reason, Kaş is an absolute stunner, and I'd try to get there every summer even if the only way too reach it was by donkey.

Kaputas Beach near Kas

Kaputas Beach near Kas

Kaş was settled by the Lycians, and the archeological traces of past civilizations can be found throughout the region. It's also a popular center for scuba diving in Turkey, and presents opportunities for hiking, kayaking, and canyoning. The Greek island of Kastelorizo, only 6 km ferry ride away, makes for a perfect day trip. For a place that feels so remote, so disconnected from the rest of the world, there's plenty to do!

A carpet shop in Kas

A carpet shop in Kas

But for us, the allure of Kaş is in the gentle pace of life. At the height of the day we're afloat in the sea. As the sun lowers we meander the streets, lazily perusing the many charming boutiques. And as the moon rises, we sit in the square with the rest of the town and the street dogs, sipping raki with cheese and melon. For us, a stay in Kaş epitomizes the Italian phrase, "il dolce far niente." The sweetness of doing nothing is what keeps us coming back for more.

Perfect spot for a swim on the side of the road

Perfect spot for a swim on the side of the road

Gümüşlük

Restaurant in Gumusluk

Restaurant in Gumusluk

Gümüşlük, while not being too far off the beaten track, has a distinct character that attracts a certain crowd and makes converts of them. Return to Gümüşlük a few summers in a row and you'll start to recognize all the regular faces.

Situated on the ever-popular and highly trafficked Bodrum peninsula, Gümüşlük is one of many beloved towns along the coast. Each town on the peninsula has it's own particular vibe, and Gümüşlük's is bohemian. As it sits on the remains of the ancient city of Myndos, future developments of Gümüşlük are prohibited.  While other towns on the peninsula grow larger each year and constuct bigger and better luxury hotels, Gümüşlük just chills. You can walk from one end of town to the other in about 15 minutes, along a dirt road that sometimes gets drowned by waves. Summer concerts are staged in outdoor venues or in a 250-year-old church, from diverse genres such as jazz, reggae, classical,  and fasıl, a type of Turkish classical music. Fish restaurants set up tables in the shallow waves on the beach. Most of the spots where you'd sip a cocktail as the sun slips away are not much more than a bar built into the trees and some beach chairs. There is no pretension.

Bar with a view

Bar with a view

While only a half hour drive from Bodrum proper, Gümüşlük feels about a thousand miles away from the St. Tropez-glitz of Turkbuku and the thumping nightclubs of Gumbet. It is as mellow as Bodrum gets. And for that, it is one of our perennial favorites.

An evening in Gumusluk

An evening in Gumusluk

Alaçatı

A typical street in Alacati

A typical street in Alacati

Alaçatı might be the most developed and popular of the towns on our list, as it is a hotspot for well-heeled Istanbullus in the summer months. However, this does not change the fact that it is utterly delightful. (Especially on the edges of the summer season, when the crowds are thin.)

Restaurant in Alacati

Restaurant in Alacati

An hour outside of Izmir, Alaçatı is a maze of narrow lanes and carefully restored, brightly painted stone houses. The center of town is strewn with charismatic boutique hotels and lovely cafes, high-end boutiques and restaurants. A short drive out of town will bring you to myriad beaches, where favorable conditions have been attracting wind-surfers for years.

Alacati in spring - no crowds!

Alacati in spring - no crowds!

Though popular with a certain set of Turks, Alaçatı is not yet well-known among foreign tourists, and so retains the sensibilities and ambiance of Turkish taste-makers. While it's close enough to Izmir and Istanbul to not feel like a total escape, you've got to admire their style.

 A hotel's garden in Alacati

 A hotel's garden in Alacati

Selimiye

Selimiye's calm waters

Selimiye's calm waters

Selimiye is less than an hour's drive from the holiday hub of Marmaris, yet manages to feel worlds away. It is situated on the Bozburun peninsula, a dramatically carved stretch of landscape that is as sparsely populated as it is spectacular. While boutique hotels have begun to crop up in Selimiye in recent years, it remains largely under the radar and is safe-guarded against large-scale construction. As the remnants of the ancient settlement of Hydas are scattered throughout the area, and there are protected breeding grounds for various species of fish in nearby coves, we hope it stays that way.

Seaside dining in Selimiye

Seaside dining in Selimiye

Selimiye sits on a bay as calm as a lake, and the water in surrounding coves is famously clear, so it is a favored stop for Blue Cruisers. But the lush beauty of the region makes Selimiye a perfect getaway year-round, especially in the spring when the landscape turns white from almond blossoms.

Glassy water in Selimiye's port

Glassy water in Selimiye's port

Selimiye is a rare find: beautiful, unpretentious, with superb but reasonably priced accommodations, and so near yet so removed from the industrialized tourism that characterizes parts of Marmaris. And what's more, with so many Blue Cruises starting and finishing in nearby Bozburun and Marmaris, you couldn't find a more convenient spot to extend your vacation by a few precious days.

We have plenty more suggestions for planning a perfect holiday in Turkey! To find out more about us and what we do, contact us.